Vaccarello To Replace Slimane At YSL?

Hedi Slimane


ALTHOUGH Yves Saint Laurent wasinsistent only a week ago that whispers about the departure of its creative director, Hedi Slimane, were just "false speculation", the rumours just will not go away - and this time, a successor is being mooted in the form of Versus Versace's creative helmer of just one year, Antony Vaccarello.

 

Slimane's contract talks have still not borne fruit, WWD reports, and it's as a result of that, it seems, that the French house has begun lining up a potential replacement. Despite having reportedly already conducted "extensive talks" with Vaccarello, Saint Laurent is still remaining tight-lipped this morning, telling us again that it, "doesn't comment on rumours".


Lily Donaldson models a look from Vaccarello's latest Versus collection


Vaccarello has enjoyed critical and commercial success in his three seasons working alongside Donatella Versace at her label's contemporary line, his sleek rock-inspired silhouette a perfect fit at Versace's edgier, more youthful little sister. Sexier and more refined than Slimane's grunge aesthetic, Vaccarello's handwriting could bring the polish and innovation that many critics have complained Slimane's Saint Laurent lacks to the house - along with a loyal fan base from his own as well as the Versus line - but whether he, or any other designer, will be able to match Slimane's unprecedented sales and dynamic growth is another matter entirely. 
The last few months of 2015 saw three major French houses - Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Lanvin - all lose their creative directors, with only the former having named a replacement, Demna Gvasalia. Vaccarello has not been linked with either of the vacant jobs - probably because it is assumed that he is being groomed to take over at Versace one day - but Slimane's name is occasionally mentioned alongside the Dior job. Most fashion insiders see this as improbable, if not impossible, given Slimane's need for complete creative control, but also the fact that the house's breadth of design requirements - including couture and red carpet - so exceed Slimane's experience. 
Saint Laurent's menswear collection will not be shown during Paris Fashion Week this season, and will instead debut alongside "womenswear part one" - in the same way as labels inclusing Burberry, Moschino and Coach - at the Palladium in Los Angeles on February 10. Despite the speculation surrounding his future, a spokesperson for the brand insisted this morning that the LA showcase will very much be "Hedi's show" - and that his next womenswear offering will be shown on March 7 in Paris as planned.