Saturday 16 January 2016

OSCAR NOMINEES REACT: FROM “HUMBLED” TO “HOLY S**T!”

Oscar Nominees React: From “Humbled” To “Holy S**t!”


Brie Larson

BEST ACTRESS Oscar nominees Brie Larson andJennifer Lawrence had very different reactions to the happy news that they would go head to head at this year's Academy Awards - and, for once, it wasn't Lawrence using expletives.

Jennifer Lawrence chats to Leonardo DiCaprio, backstage at the Golden Globes

"I am beyond grateful and humbled by this nomination," Oscar winner Lawrence, who received her fourth nomination yesterday, said. "I feel incredibly honoured to be recognised among the other amazing women in this category. Joy is an incredibly inspiring story about an ordinary woman who does extraordinary things. For me, working with David O Russell has been nothing short of extraordinary, and I share this nomination with him as well as our incredible supporting cast. I could not be more proud to be a part of this film."

Leonardo DiCaprio with his Golden Globe award



Michael Fassbender with Steve Jobs co-star Kate Winslet, who won a Golden Globe for her role in the film

Nominated for a fifth Oscar - which critics feel he is almost certain to win -Leonardo DiCaprio was equally keen to emphasise the importance of acknowledging the whole team behind The Revenant, which received 12 nominations in total.
"We were all very pleasantly surprised when we got the news with the number of nominations we had," he told Deadline on route to last night's London premiere. "It's pretty amazing for the type of film of that it is. It's the kind that studios don't really usually take on. We've been doing publicity trying to push the movie along through Europe. When you do this kind of work on the film, you want people to see it."
Sylvester Stallone in Creed
Jennifer Lawrence with her Golden Globe
"We just flew in from England and landed about 3:30 in the morning and I couldn't go to sleep. I was just knocked out of my chair," Best Supporting Actor nominee Stallone told Deadline. "It's so gratifying that I got to share this with my daughters, Sophia, Sistine and Scarlett. The first time I was very green, very naive, and didn't realise how special it was to be recognised by your peers. I was 29 years old and now at 69 years old, this is a modern miracle."

Friday 15 January 2016

THE BIRKIN BAG:BETTER THAN GOLD

 The Birkin Bag:Better Than Gold


Carrie Bradshaw's famous Sex and the City wardrobe

WHEN Carrie Bradshaw said in  Sex and The City, "I like my money where I can see it, hanging in my closet," she was actually showing her shrewd business sense, as a recent study has found that one of fashion's most iconic bags, the Hermès Birkin, has proven to be a sounder investment that gold and stock-market shares since its creation.
The Birkin bag

Heralded as "the safest and least volatile investment market" by the study (which was conducted by  online retail platform Baghunter), the Birkin bag has soundly increased in value by 500 per cent in the last 35 years, compared to other investments which regularly fluctuate.

"As a whole, the study findings show how stable the ultra-luxury industry has been over the past 35 years when compared to more traditional investment opportunities," Evelyn Fox, founder of Baghunter, told Luxurydaily.com. "In particular, the study displays how high-end, rare and sought-after luxury items such as Hermès Birkin handbags have never dropped in value, even during times of recession and economic difficulty."

"There is a difference between luxury and ultra-luxury," she continued. "While the luxury market suffers during worse economic times, the ultra-luxury market is impervious to economic factors that can affect other industries such as high-street retail and stock markets."
An excuse, if ever one was needed, to go forth and invest.

LONDON'S BIG NAMES SIGN UP TO CONSUMER SHOWS

London's Big Names Sign Up To Consumer Shows

Temperley London is one of the brands that will show at London Fashion Weekend

THE British Fashion Council is to host consumer fashion shows for the public over London Fashion Weekend this February, which takes place immediately after the London Fashion Week ready-to-wear shows finish.

Backstage at spring/summer 2016 Mary Katrantzou

Emilia WicksteadTemperley LondonHolly Fulton and Mary Katrantzou are the houses that have been selected to showcase their autumn/winter 2016 collections on the runway, which will happen two to four times per day, reports WWD, with each showing on a separate day. They follow in the footsteps of Christopher Raeburn, House of Holland, Issa and Peter Pilotto who took part in the four-day event in September.

Holly Fulton spring/summer 2016


The announcement comes at an interesting time for the industry as it looks to experiment with integrating the consumer more to capitalise on spending power. Earlier this month we reported that the CFDA had employed Boston Consulting Group and Alibaba to investigate various options to shake up the current fashion-show format and involve the customer more - the results of which are pending.

London Fashion Weekend is an obvious way for the BFC to explore the benefits of offering access to the public. Since it started, the ticketed event has offered attendees the chance to "explore the life of the fashion insider at this exclusive event, shop the best designer collections and speak to industry experts about their journey to the top", according to the organisers, and allows to BFC to draw a clear distinction between the official LFW which is a trade event.

Thursday 14 January 2016

HILARY SUES HER MOTHER

Hilary Sues Her Mother




Hilary Rhoda

HILARY RHODA is involved in a legal dispute with her mother - and former manager - Marianne Rhoda, claiming that she stole a six-figure sum from the model. The lawsuit - which was filed in 2014 - has come to light now as Marianne is countersuing her daughter, denying all the allegations and claiming breach of contract.

Hilary and Marianne Rhoda

The Victoria's Secret model's case claims that her mother "manipulated her familial role to improperly seize - and then abuse - enormous power over Hilary's finances," according to Page Six, which reports that "the suit claims Marianne forged Hilary's signature, diverted 'substantial funds' for her retirement, refused to provide accounting records and used a company credit card 'for hundreds of thousands of dollars' in personal expenses - including 'divorce attorneys', a 'pool vendor' and shopping trips." She is also accused of withdrawing and transferring $2.9 million from her daughter's account to her personal account - in moves allegedly unrelated to her daughter's modelling career.


Hilary on her wedding day

In the countersuit, the former manager cites Hilary's husband, NHL player Sean Avery, as a key figure in the breakdown in communication between herself and her only child, stating that she was "concerned" for Hilary's financial future after "Avery prevailed upon Hilary to refrain from seeking a prenuptial agreement and embarked on a concerted effort to estrange" her from her mother. She also claims that after leaving the NHL his work was "sporadic" and "prospects for employment were highly speculative".
The model announced her engagement to Avery in 2013 and they married in a small Hamptons ceremony in October 2015, which her mother is said not to have attended.


ANGELINA NOT ADOPTING YET

Angelina Not Adopting Yet







FOLLOWING the news this week that Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are said to be looking to adopt a seventh child in Cambodia imminently, the country's Ministry of Social Affairs has denied that negotiations have begun.
"I saw the news on Facebook, but actually it's just a rumour,"  Sao Samphois, a spokesperson for the ministry's Inter-Country Adoption Administration said in a statement, reports the Phnom Penn Post, adding that there is currently no legal mechanism in place for adoptions between his country and the US. "The adoption between the two countries is not yet open."

March 2000

The claims that the Jolie-Pitts are looking to adopt again surfaced this week, stating that they wanted to welcome the youngest child of the impoverished Shoun family who live in Siem Reap.  However, a teenage member of the family, Leida, told reporters for the  Daily Mail that Shiloh Jolie-Pitt and Zahara Jolie-Pitt were actually sponsoring them and spending time with them.

Magnetic MoonWalker Shoes Ditch Gravity

Magnetic MoonWalker Shoes Ditch Gravity








When is the last time a pair of shoes put you over the moon? A New York-based startup wants to send you there, replicating low-gravity environments with their smart, super-magnetic sneakers.
The thick MoonWalker shoes from the startup Moonshine Crea promise to let wearers bounce around like Neil Armstrong. Each shoe contains N45 magnets — a fairly high grade of powerful rare-earth magnet — placed so their north poles face each other, creating a repellent force that “leaves you light on your feet and happy as an astronaut,” according to their Indiegogo campaign.
One MoonWalker version comes with e-ink and smart technology so wearers can customize designs that appear on the sneaker’s edge from their smartphones. They can also connect the shoes to their social media accounts.
Since their crowdfunding campaign launched, the shoes have received 493 percent funding with time left on the clock. Currently the MoonWalkers are going for around $100 on Indiegogo. When they begin shipping later this summer, they’ll come in adult sizes, various colors, and contain memory foam for comfort.
These shoes sound incredibly fun to wear. Sort of like hopping on a pogo stick, only less dorky. But — and this is a big but — I haven’t actually seen the shoes demoed yet. The startup’s main video merely explains the shoe’s components.
“Where can we actually watch a video of the shoes in action?” one Facebook commmenter wrote on their page. “Seeing how they’re built doesn’t show me how they work.” Moonshine Crea did respond that they’re working on new videos to upload this month.
Maybe hoverboards will improve to the point where they go head-to-head against anti-gravity kicks like this. In any case, it’s clear that we’re all itching to get off the ground. The matter of who levitates best will get settled once the shoes launch in August.
9 High-Tech Shoes Step Into the Future: Photos
 below

Wednesday 13 January 2016

DAVID HONOURED BY UNICEF

David Honoured By Unicef


David Beckham on stage collecting his award

DAVID BECKHAM was honoured in front of a group of the world's most famous faces in Los Angeles last night as UNICEF awarded him with the Danny Kaye Humanitarian Leadership Award.

"I have four children of my own and I will not stop supporting UNICEF until I know that all children are safe"


The former footballer and fashion star - who has also been a UNICEF goodwill ambassador since 2005 - was chosen as the recipient as a result of "his tireless work to save and improve the lives of children around the world", and the work he does through his charity, 7: The David Beckham UNICEF Fund, which he launched last year.
Beckham receives his award on stage

"We live in a world where children are still dying of preventable diseases, or being subjected to abuse and violence," said Beckham after long-term friends Elton John and his partner David Furnish presented him with the accolade. "I have four children of my own and I will not stop supporting UNICEF until I know that all children are safe, healthy and have a bright future ahead of them."



Victoria Beckham, who although wasn't at the ceremony, was quick to congratulate her husband, taking to Instagram with an image of David and the caption: "You are an inspiration to so many people with the incredible work you do, we love you so much Victoria, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper x."



With Nicholas Ghesquiere after the ceremony


Vaccarello To Replace Slimane At YSL?

Vaccarello To Replace Slimane At YSL?



Hedi Slimane


ALTHOUGH Yves Saint Laurent wasinsistent only a week ago that whispers about the departure of its creative director, Hedi Slimane, were just "false speculation", the rumours just will not go away - and this time, a successor is being mooted in the form of Versus Versace's creative helmer of just one year, Antony Vaccarello.

 

Slimane's contract talks have still not borne fruit, WWD reports, and it's as a result of that, it seems, that the French house has begun lining up a potential replacement. Despite having reportedly already conducted "extensive talks" with Vaccarello, Saint Laurent is still remaining tight-lipped this morning, telling us again that it, "doesn't comment on rumours".


Lily Donaldson models a look from Vaccarello's latest Versus collection


Vaccarello has enjoyed critical and commercial success in his three seasons working alongside Donatella Versace at her label's contemporary line, his sleek rock-inspired silhouette a perfect fit at Versace's edgier, more youthful little sister. Sexier and more refined than Slimane's grunge aesthetic, Vaccarello's handwriting could bring the polish and innovation that many critics have complained Slimane's Saint Laurent lacks to the house - along with a loyal fan base from his own as well as the Versus line - but whether he, or any other designer, will be able to match Slimane's unprecedented sales and dynamic growth is another matter entirely. 
The last few months of 2015 saw three major French houses - Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Lanvin - all lose their creative directors, with only the former having named a replacement, Demna Gvasalia. Vaccarello has not been linked with either of the vacant jobs - probably because it is assumed that he is being groomed to take over at Versace one day - but Slimane's name is occasionally mentioned alongside the Dior job. Most fashion insiders see this as improbable, if not impossible, given Slimane's need for complete creative control, but also the fact that the house's breadth of design requirements - including couture and red carpet - so exceed Slimane's experience. 
Saint Laurent's menswear collection will not be shown during Paris Fashion Week this season, and will instead debut alongside "womenswear part one" - in the same way as labels inclusing Burberry, Moschino and Coach - at the Palladium in Los Angeles on February 10. Despite the speculation surrounding his future, a spokesperson for the brand insisted this morning that the LA showcase will very much be "Hedi's show" - and that his next womenswear offering will be shown on March 7 in Paris as planned.

ADIDAS CELEBRATES CHINESE NEW YEAR WITH ALL-RED TUBULARS

ADIDAS CELEBRATES CHINESE NEW YEAR WITH ALL-RED TUBULARS







The adidas Tubular managed to combine the famed adidas Y-3 aesthetic with retro inspirations from the three stripes’ running past and turned into one of the most popular adidas offerings of the past year and a half. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that adidas is using three of the most popular silhouettes in the adidas Tubular Runner, adidas Tubular X, and the new adidas Tubular Doom to celebrate the Chinese New Year. All red uppers utilize a breathable mesh base while a synthetic reptile skin and bolstered suede add a touch of luxury. Available overseas on January 23rd, we’ll keep you updated on when this trio arrives stateside in the near future.










Tuesday 12 January 2016

The World's First Fully Functional 3D Printed Watch: The Christoph Laimer Tourbillon

Introducing The World's First Fully Functional 3D Printed Watch: The Christoph Laimer Tourbillon


Christoph Laimer's 3D Printed Tourbillon Watch

It was an unseasonably warm Saturday afternoon in Brooklyn, and I was walking my dog when my phone buzzed with a text message from a friend, containing only a link to something on Thingiverse (a 3D printing file-sharing site). I opened the link and my jaw dropped; I was looking at a 3D printed tourbillon watch running by itself, built by Christoph Laimer, a Swiss engineer.






This is an actual watch, with a tourbillon
Watch 101
Tourbillon
 mg 0736.jpg?ixlib=rails 0.3
A tourbillon is a mechanism that constantly rotates the balance wheel, balance spring and escapement while the movement is running. This is done to counter the affect of Earth's gravity on the isochronal properties of the balance wheel and spring.
 , that is almost entirely 3D printed. Think about it: the tourbillon – a 200+ year old invention designed by one of the greatest watchmakers to ever live, which for most of its history has been practically synonymous with hand-craftsmanship and high end watchmaking, has been produced in a working watch with a 3D printer.  
You can wind it, set the time, and carry it with you. Sure, it's a bit large (a pocket watch, not a wristwatch, and they'd need to be good sized pockets to boot) not very accurate, and only runs for about 30 minutes – but none of that is what really matters. What matters is that this watch was manufactured using an affordable consumer level 3D printer (anUltimaker 2). To top it off, Laimer made all of the source files available for free!  Sure there have been watch components made in the past, but this is the first (as far as we have been able to determine) entire, working watch that is 3D printed: every gear, escapement component, the case, even the balance spring and mainspring – and we have to emphasize that it's not just a collection of files, it's actually running.  
The only non-printed parts are the metal pins used as the axes for the gears, and some screws and washers (aka "vitamins" as non-printed components are called in the 3D printing community).This is huge news for watchmaking, of course, but was also very big news for me personally. To see why, let's take a step back to the summer of 2014. I had just completed my own attempt at a 3D printed horological project: the Tourbillon 1000%, which is a 3D printed tourbillon with a co-axial escapement. Tourbillon 1000% isn't a complete watch though; it's just the tourbillon mechanism and fourth wheel, and doesn't include any gear train
Watch 101
Gear Train
Image filler.png?ixlib=rails 0.3
The gear train transmits power from the barrel to the escapement. It also divides time into usable segments.
  or barrel
Watch 101
Barrel & Mainspring
The barrel is a large gear that contains the powerful mainspring. The mainspring, when wound, provides power to the watch.
 . It doesn't run by itself; instead it requires a human to provide power to the tourbillon carriage while holding the fourth wheel.
Manousos Tourbillon 1000%
The Tourbillon 1000%
I had big plans to continue work on Tourbillon 1000% and build an entire movement that would run by itself, and I worked on this project like crazy, but ultimately stopped after hitting many apparently unsolvable roadblocks. The last prototype of the not-really-working complete movement for the Tourbillon 1000% now lives on a shelf at HODINKEE.
How did Christoph Laimer overcome the issues that I faced before stopping work? He built his watch by arranging his gears in a vertical stack rather than the usual horizontal arrangement, and also he used a different type of bearing than I did.
A major consideration in any 3D printing project is the relation between the nozzle diameter (X/Y resolution) and bed size (how big a printed part can be, in X/Y/Z). These two variables determine the overall scale at which the project can be printed – for practical purposes in a watchmaking project, they determine how small you can make your watch. Usually, traditional watch movement architecture isn't compatible with ratio between nozzle diameter and bed size found in most 3D printers. (One part in particular causes the most problems – themainplate
Watch 101
Mainplate
Mainplate.png?ixlib=rails 0.3
The mainplate and bridges hold the parts of a watch movement together in a sturdy and calculated fashion. Bridges are attached to the mainplate via screws.
So, instead of using traditional horizontal movement architecture, Laimer instead built upwards, layering parts vertically. Notice that his tourbillon is directly on top of his mainspring barrel. Historically, this makes a lot of sense. If you take a look at early portable timepieces – the first watches – you'll see that they're often nearly as tall as they are wide. There are a lot of reasons for this (including the height of early fusée cones, and the fact that the earliest known escapement – the verge – is inherently thick) but one relevant issue is that machining techniques for those first watches didn't allow for the high precision needed for a flat (Lépine style) movement. In my case, my mistake in designing the Tourbillon 1000% was sticking with conventional, modern movement layout.

Click and ratchet wheel detail
Click and ratchet wheel detail
In a mechanical watch, we are familiar with seeing pierced jewels
Watch 101
Jewels
Jewel.png?ixlib=rails 0.3
Jewels are synthetic sapphire bearings on which wheels are mounted in order to rotate. They reduce friction and wear.
 being used as bearings. The hard bearing surface allows for a pivot to rotate with a low amount of friction. Laimer used gears with steel pins running all the way through them, on which the gear rotates, rather than the usual arrangement of pivots in jewel bearings. This allows for higher strength and low weight in the movement construction, and for the ability to mount gears co-axially. (Notice the escape wheel and balance
Watch 101
Balance Wheel
Balance wheel.png?ixlib=rails 0.3
The balance wheel receives the lateral impulses from the escape wheel, and oscillates. The balance spring (AKA hairspring) provides the restoring force to the balance wheel. Together, they are the regulating organ of the timepiece.
  share the same axis.) My approach was more traditional, using skateboard ball bearings and traditional pivots for the gears. This caused my tourbillon to be much heavier than Laimer's, meaning that more power was needed to keep it moving. That extra power, combined with the inherent weakness of 3D printed parts when compared to traditional brass and steel, was a recipe for disaster. Teeth were literally snapping off wheels!

Escape wheel and pallet fork
Escape wheel and pallet fork
The 3D Printed Tourbillon Watch is Laimer's second horological 3D printing project. His first was a wall clock, driven by a weight of 1.2kg. I spoke with Laimer to find out more about his development process and plans for the future:
Where did the idea to stack your movement vertically come from?
The design is driven by symmetry – I love the mental link of the sun-gear with the escapement-wheel, and the anchor floating like a planet around the sun. With the co-axial escapement-gear, the tourbillon has a much lower inertia, and the counter-weight needs only to balance the lever and the planet gear. Last but not least it's important for the 3D printing community to keep the non-printable parts as simple as possible.
Mainspring, removed from the barrel
Mai

Are you a watchmaker, or in the watchmaking industry?
I'm not a watchmaker. I studied electrical engineering, with 18 years professional experience in computer science, managing a small team, and developing software for the lifecscience industry. At the moment I'm taking a time-out in order to explore interesting things, for which I never had time before.
Is the material all PLA (polylactic acid, a plastic commonly used in 3D printing) except for the case (PETG)?
Yes. Except for the main spring: there I tried 2 versions (in both) PETG and PLA. Both not ideal, but I was still surprised that I could get it running for more than 5 minutes. Maybe the community will continue experimenting with other materials.

All the 3D printed parts
All the 3D printed parts.
What was your inspiration for focusing on horological 3D printing?
When I bought my first 3D printer, I realized, that many people were designing "stupid" decoration pieces. I wanted something useful, and so I started experimenting with custom LEGO-gears for my children. Some iterations later I had designed and printed the gear-train with hollow shafts for the 3 clock-hands, "only" the escapement was missing. That was the moment when I realized, that a clock is THE living creature, which finally made (it make) sense to own a 3D printer.
What are your next steps?
My family explained, that my time-out is over now. Since I very much like designing complex mechanics in 3D, I'm keen to find a new profession. Maybe the published watch can help? I certainly won't stop constructing things with my 3D printer. I'm wondering, if I would buy a 0.25 mm nozzle, if gears with module 0.3 are printable (that is, it might be possible to print smaller gear teeth and thus make a smaller watch -Ed.) If I'd also replace the plastic main-spring by a real steel spring, it might be possible to print a wearable thing that runs for 12-24 hours. These are only fuzzy thoughts about my next project – certainly, it will be something else (as long as it is challenging and inspiring).
All the non-3D printed parts
All the non-3D printed parts
3D printing is often touted as the next frontier for manufacturing, and work like this goes a long way in making that more real. It's interesting to see how very old-fashioned movement architecture is reflected in this work. Sometimes a step forward requires looking through the rear view mirror!
Laimer mentioned that he is working on a small series of his 3D Printed Tourbillon Watch that he will offer for sale, for those that don't own their own 3D printer. Interested? Contact Laimer on Thingiverse (account required).